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Rick Owens Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week If you saw darkness in the image of the whirlpool on Rick Owens’s lenticular invite, you were right and wrong. In keeping with the last couple of seasons, Owens said he has human decline on his mind, but he’s not as fatalistic as that concept might suggest. Backstage ...
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Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week Maybe it seems hissy to harp on about punctuality. A tune about “fashion world problems” merits the world’s smallest violin. Yet the team at Ann Demeulemeester is so consistently late—at both menswear and womenswear—that the suspicion that they cultivate extravagant lateness as try-hard affectation becomes more compelling every ...
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Balmain Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week In June, news broke that Mayhoola, the investment group linked to the Qatari royal family, bought Balmain—just days before the fashion house’s menswear show in Paris. Mayhoola also acquired Valentino in 2012. And if that brand’s trajectory is anything to go by, Balmain and its creative director, Olivier Rousteing, ...
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Melitta Baumeister Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week After three years of constructing innovative garment shapes from industrial materials, Melitta Baumeister has finally made a collection that no longer feels so intimidating. This season marks a turning point for the New York–based designer, whose steadfast approach to stiff volumes has quite likely restricted her from achieving ...
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Manish Arora Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week Nothing quite prepares you for a blue Pomeranian—even when you remember him as being purple last season. But Fluffy the dog was one of many reprised ingredients that went into Manish Arora’s runway recipe for happiness. A choker fronted with a fried egg, rainbow-striped creepers, and My Little ...
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Paco Rabanne Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week You don’t get the feeling that Julien Dossena is going through the motions at Paco Rabanne. So many young designers who are airlifted into storied fashion houses take it as an opportunity to bend the meaning of the brand to whatever their own identity may be. Dossena, however, had ...
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