ADEAM AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR NEW YORK

Fall found ADEAM designer Hanako Maeda in a quieter mood, far from last season’s Yves Klein blue and glossy heat transfers. Here was a lineup in charcoal, black, oxblood, cream, and little else. Fabrication is always paramount to the brand, but the rich fil coupe from Maeda’s Fall ’14 outing was nowhere to be found–though with what she showed instead, it was hardly missed. Take the dreamy cashmere-sable blend the designer whipped up and sent out in wrap tops and jackets, or a long navy wool coat with geometric designs in mohair (a statement piece without verging on full-on street-style bait). Elsewhere was a great nylon parka trimmed in curly lamb at the collar, and a nubby white sweaterdress, eyed hungrily by half the front row.

While the looks on offer might have benefited from a slightly tighter edit, this was a strong showing for Maeda, with a clear message: easy, cozy, and, of course, hyper-luxe. And the designer’s got only big things in the works for the coming months. In addition to the forthcoming debut of ADEAM’s first ad campaign and market appointments in Paris, come February 25 Maeda opens her first brick-and-mortar location, an in-store boutique at Tokyo’s Isetan.