Lanvin Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week In the season when not one but two women designers get to step up to the helm of major French luxury houses, there’s a mini feminist revolution going on at the center of the Paris fashion establishment. Maria Grazia Chiuri is to debut at Christian Dior on Friday, while ...
Maison Margiela Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week
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Maison Margiela Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week No matter how many years John Galliano has lived in Paris, he’s still an English eccentric. There’s his grand, poetic-historicist side, and then there’s the side of him with an eye for streetwear. He can’t look at a fashion rule without thinking about how to turn it upside ...
Courrèges Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week
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Courrèges Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant are on Paris show No. 3 for Courrèges. Their first two seasons were about re-establishing the Space Age-y label for the 21st century. They made remarkably swift work of it; their vinyl jackets, inspired by André Courrèges’s originals, have been spotted on many a ...
Y/Project Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week
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Y/Project Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week The recognizable operatic flourish of Carmina Burana that signaled the start of the Y/Project show felt ominous; was Glenn Martens beginning to take his label too seriously? The answer came within seconds once the music pivoted to cocktail bossa nova, restoring faith in his irreverence. Cue the collection, which ...
Paule Ka Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week
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Paule Ka Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week A cliff-like perch within the grand greenhouse of the Jardin des Plantes afforded a panoramic view of Alithia Spuri-Zampetti’s latest collection for Paule Ka—and what a confident, vibrant, enticing vision it was. In just over a year, this former head designer of womenswear at Lanvin has breathed new ...
Saint Laurent Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week
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Saint Laurent Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week Anthony Vaccarello chose to hold his debut show for Saint Laurent in the impressive surroundings of a palatial building site—a former monastery, later a military headquarters, which has been derelict in the heart of Paris and is now being restored as the Saint Laurent headquarters. The background worked ...
Jacquemus Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week
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Jacquemus Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week The first day of Paris Fashion Week is suddenly all action. If you don’t arrive in time for Tuesday’s roster of young talent, you risk not knowing how the future might take shape—and that’s a new phenomenon here. What you really want to see are designers who reach the ...
Anrealage Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week
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Anrealage Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week Our world is increasingly experienced through screens. We have them in our homes and at our offices, we carry them in our pockets, we stare at them in our hands as we walk down the street. They feed us information, companionship, affirmation, community, and content that is shaped by ...
Koché Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week
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Koché Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week Rethinking the fashion show format—from the venue to the bonus entertainment to the actual season of the merchandise being sold—has become one of Spring 2017’s big stories. Paris up-and-comer Christelle Kocher was at it a year ago with her debut in the catacombs of Les Halles, the market and ...
Aalto Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week
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Aalto Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week Many a fashion mood board has boasted pictures of Kurt Cobain wearing a dress. Far, far fewer show him next to a Moomin, a Finnish cartoon character that looks like an amorphous manatee. For Aalto’s Spring collection, Tuomas Merikoski created an artisanal capsule inspired by Tove Jansson’s beloved comic ...
Nehera Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week
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Nehera Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week Nehera’s Samuel Drira is not a minimalist. The deconstructed apron-style jackets, ample patchwork skirts, and white shirt-sleeve pants that were among his opening looks confirmed as much. Usually, achieving such complicated designs while also conveying a strong impression of ease comes from a maximum amount of trial and error. Drira’s ...
Olivier Theyskens Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week
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Olivier Theyskens Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week Olivier Theyskens headed up some big-name fashion brands after launching his eponymous label in the late '90s: Rochas, Nina Ricci, and Theory. He stepped away from the runway two years ago, and eventually came back to Paris from New York. Today marked his grand return, but he's starting ...
Atlein Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week
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Atlein Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week A lot has changed for Antonin Tron since the much buzzed-about debut of Atlein last March. His brand has been picked up by stores like Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, The Line, Net-a-Porter, and The Webster. In July, he won ANDAM’s First Collections prize, a well-earned windfall that allowed him ...
Vetements Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week
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Vetements Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week The Gvasalia brothers, Demna, the designer, and Guram, the business brains behind the Vetements phenomenon, pulled off a coup for the fashion credibility of Paris with a show in the Galeries Lafayette tonight. On many levels, it was an event which satirically contravened half a dozen arcane regulations of ...
Julien David Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week
Julien David Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week In showing both his Spring ’17 men’s and women’s collections today, Julien David has joined the wave of designers recalibrating the fashion cycle on their own terms. Go figure, he also used waves as a metaphor that he rode from the subtropical southern islands of Japan to the ...
Off-White Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Pairs Fashion Week
Off-White Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Pairs Fashion Week OFF-WHITE c/o VIRGIL ABLOH™ is a fashion label rooted in current culture at a taste-level particular to now. With a specific opinion and not necessarily same with vision seasonal men's and women's collections are offered. There is a product offering of the brand also in the realm of furniture and ...
Vivienne Westwood Spring 2017 Menswear on Bessd
Vivienne Westwood Spring 2017 Menswear Boundaries mean little to Dame Vivienne Westwood. Perhaps because she transgressed so many in the ’70s. This is, after all, a woman who habitually wore a see-through rubber body suit—dubbed the “Rubber Johnny,” after a British prophylactic colloquialism and due to its translucent pink material—and who sold T-shirts scrawled with obscenities, ...
Versace Spring 2017 Menswear on Bessd
Versace Spring 2017 Menswear Donatella Versace shot a movie before she designed her latest collection. No, the blonde bombshell hasn’t finally taken to the silver screen—alongside Bruce Weber she spent four days in Chicago, photographing her Fall 2016 Versace campaign and shooting a 20-odd-minute film to go with it. A shortened version of said film played ...
Salvatore Ferragamo Spring 2017 Menswear on Bessd
Salvatore Ferragamo Spring 2017 Menswear The Russian painter Nicolas de Staël ’s oeuvre was on more than one mood board this season; not surprising, because he was loaded with some of the most attractive qualities that a fashion designer in search of inspiration can hope for. He was handsome, talented, an emigré aristocrat, a slightly ...
Prada Spring 2017 Menswear on Bessd
Prada Spring 2017 Menswear Miuccia Prada has often been fascinated with otherness, with the idea of the different, the alien, the unfamiliar. A curiosity informs her work—a curiosity about people. How they live, what they like, what they may want to wear. It’s not always the foundation of her collections, but it is telling that after ...