BADGLEY MISCHKA AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

BADGLEY MISCHKA AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

Wife or mistress? Mark Badgley and James Mischka tried to think about both sides of that particularly tricky argument for Fall, having re-watched one of their favorite old Hollywood movies, Blood and Sand, from 1941. It’s about a bullfighter on the rise, his faithful wife, and the sizzling other woman, played by Rita Hayworth. Spoiler alert: Nothing good can come of being caught between two women and a bull.

Similarly, the collection the designers showed felt like a push and pull between two ideas, at times three. There was a prim lady in her bouclé trench and peplum day dress. And, of course, the matador translated both overtly—in embellished brocade jackets, shells, and strapless gowns that stayed safely in the designers’ wheelhouse—and with a more modern hand, via a white button-down shirt tucked into a long black skirt with gold embroidery encasing the waist and hips. Then, an intermission of sorts, comprising red and black plaid looks. A sheath with a deep V-neck was cool but felt more appropriate coming from a young contemporary guy, not full-grown men, and definitely not with this plotline.

But the designers introduced a promising new material to their lineup: a silk honeycomb gazar. “It’s my favorite,” Badgley said after the show, pointing out a breezy black cocktail dress in the fabric, with gold embroidery just in the back. “It weighs ounces, and it molds like clay.” It also illustrated how tech-sportif and high-glam can coexist if given the chance.

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