BARBARA CASASOLA SPRING/SUMMER 2015 LONDON FASHION WEEK

Barbara Casasola looked homeward to her native Brazil this season, seizing on the work of artist Lygia Pape, as well as Oscar Niemeyer’s architecture in Brasília, for inspiration. More generally, too, Casasola was summoning a certain Brazilian kind of beachside chic, riffing on swimwear and aiming for a laid-back attitude. The ease of this collection marked a real growth for Casasola, whose clothes can sometimes feel rigorous; this time out, she interpreted her favorite stovepipe dress silhouette in a relaxed way, emphasizing stretchy fabrics and seamless patterning. The best of these came in sunset colors and looked a bit like dress-length maillots. Casasola also did well with her tailoring, in particular the double-breasted jackets slashed in the back and nonchalantly wrap-belted. But the real highlight here were the metallic pieces, an homage to Pape’s luminous thread installations. The material Casasola used was lightweight but densely ribbed, and so-cool tank dresses in olive and silver fit like a second skin. To close the show, the designer sent out metallic singlets worn with matching floor-length plissé skirts—a proposition for evening that looked really fresh. Nice work.

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