Ralph Lauren Spring 2017 Menswear Ralph Lauren is a reed that bends in the wind but he is forever Ralph Lauren. America’s pre-eminent designer has streamlined his brand architecture and is now going through a process of more profound corporate restructure: Yet in his Milano palazzo today the 2017 archetype of Purple Label masculinity was serenely ...
Philipp Plein Spring 2017 Menswear “Sorry we are running late”—said Philipp Plein, breezily addressing a bank of TV reporters 13 minutes after his show was due to start at 9 p.m. last night—“but this is fashion!” At 9:39 p.m., as we sat in the bleachers of Plein’s impressive basketball set, we noticed a countdown time on a ...
Neil Barrett 2017 Menswear Retailers repeatedly informally report that Neil Barrett is hot-to-trot on the rails right now, but it that hot air? Apparently not: “It’s been our best year since we started,” this softly spoken, deeply consistent designer confirmed backstage before this evening’s show. Squinting at the collection that ensued, you could kind of see ...
MP Massimo Piombo Spring 2017 Menswear The MP Massimo Piombo flagship store was originally designed by Gae Aulenti—not as a shop, mind. And it still doesn’t feel like one. Piombo installed plants and painted the space a signature shade of blue—okay, Yves Klein named it first, but the pigment is decidedly Piombo. Otherwise, the narrow, high-stacked ...
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Boglioli Spring 2017 Menswear Davide Marello, Boglioli’s young, lanky, and well-mannered creative director, has a penchant for art, which nowadays seems to serve as a prerequisite for every fashion designer worthy of the title. Art images are plastered across every mood board, the more arcane the better. Sometimes they’re just a thin veneer of maquillage layered ...
Brunello Cucinelli Spring 2017 Menswear Brunello Cucinelli had just got back from Florence, where he’d presented his Spring Summer collection to international buyers at Pitti Uomo. He was in a buoyant mood: “Now Italian Men’s Fashion Week starts from Florence and stretches out to Milan,” he enthused. “It’s becoming more and more an integrated format that ...
Bottega Veneta Spring 2017 Menswear Discretion, quality, and craftsmanship – Bottega Veneta has created a new standard of luxury since its founding in Vicenza in 1966. Steeped in the traditions of Italy’s master leather craftsmen and long celebrated for its extraordinary leather goods, Bottega Veneta has recently emerged as one of the world’s premier luxury brands. ...
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Bally Spring 2017 Menswear The Bally Company was established in Schönenwerd in 1851 and three years later, the first factory located in the village centre was built. By the 1870s, Bally was recognised as a footwear industry leader. Bally grew internationally and opened stores in Geneva and Montevideo in 1870, followed by Buenos Aires (1873), Paris ...
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Raf Simons Spring 2017 Menswear Earlier this year, the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation contacted Raf Simons. They asked if he’d like to work with them on something. He said yes. That’s the shorthand version of the story behind the collection he presented at Pitti Immagine Uomo, perfectly chimed with a duo of Mapplethorpe exhibitions at LACMA and ...
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Pringle of Scotland Spring 2017 Menswear “I wanted to give Pringle a room with a view,” said Pringle of Scotland’s head of design, Massimo Nicosia. He said it against the blazing sunshine of Florence, and below a frescoed ceiling (one of many) in the Palazzo Aldobrandini, a 16th-century mansion that’s played host to popes and ...
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Miharayasuhiro Spring 2017 Menswear Karlheinz Weinberger’s documentary record of mid-century Swiss youth doing their utmost to dress like Americans was a powerful influence at Mihara Yasuhiro’s debut London show today. The relocated-from-Paris Japanese designer chose a faded bowling alley as his venue; “King Creole” and other in-his-pomp Elvis numbers made up the preamble soundtrack; and when ...
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Visvim Spring 2017 Menswear Visvim designer Hiroki Nakamura has an obsession with Americana: blue jeans and chinos, cowboys and ranchers, the whole bit. There’s a twisted sense of “normality” to his aesthetic, being as it is embedded in garments we see every day, even if we’re not American, due to the overwhelming influence that culture has ...
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Gosha Rubchinskiy Spring 2017 Menswear A change of scenery, a change of pace. The menswear designer invited by Pitti Immagine to stage a show in Florence for Spring 2017 is Gosha Rubchinskiy. Moscow born, based, and somewhat obsessed, his collections thus far have unraveled his Soviet identity, nostalgically harking back to the time before the curtain ...
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Coach 1941 Spring 2017 Menswear Stuart Vevers is one of those designers as concerned with the bottom line as with the hemline, as preoccupied with the commercial afterlife of a product as the exact angle for its runway debut. Those designers are rare—although, increasingly, less so, given the demands of IPOs, CEOs, and, increasingly, a press ...
Fausto Puglisi Spring 2017 Menswear Fausto Puglisi’s clothes conform to a very precise, very particular notion of “Italian” fashion: heavily decorated, floridly patterned, brightly colored, and, for many, just a little too much. He’s right at home in Florence, with its ornate palazzi and rich backdrops of Renaissance masterpieces. Incongruously, Puglisi chose to show in a disused ...
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Joseph Spring 2017 Menswear For Spring, Joseph’s Louise Trotter and Mark Thomas went, in Thomas’s words, for an aesthetic that combined “workwear, military, and a kind of painter’s garb”. Yet, where the utility generally inherent in those garments might skew towards bulky (pockets, straps, etc.), the designers focused on a different sort of pragmatism: one of ...
Dondup Spring 2017 Menswear Manuela Mariotti, Dondup’s creative director, worked with a young design team for the label’s Spring 2017 men’s collection. A fresh, contemporary approach could be perceived in a lineup revolving around a basic wardrobe of simple daywear staples, which were given a modern spin. Volumes conveyed a ’90s vibe, translated in the slightly ...
Christopher Shannon Spring 2017 Menswear Christopher Shannon is a dazzling, ingenious, infuriating, and unpredictable designer. He’s possibly one of the best menswear designers in the world; he’s certainly high up there in London. What Shannon does is astoundingly clever—using the humdrum, the everyday, the plain naff, to create something inventive and progressive. He generally uses the ...
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Belstaff Spring 2017 Menswear This season(s), the motorcycling heritage brand Belstaff sped into broader fashion consensus by aligning the theme and presentation of its Resort and Pre-Spring menswear collections. Yet it was careful to retain the authorial independence of its two gender-specific design chiefs. That theme, as menswear’s Fred Dyhr put it, “starts with the 1971 ...
Alexander McQueen Spring 2017 Menswear With creative director Sarah Burton still away on maternity leave after the birth of her third child, the Alexander McQueen label stepped back from the runway to present its latest menswear collection via a series of intimate appointments and a sequence of atmospheric images photographed by Julia Hetta. “You wouldn’t get ...
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