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Rick Owens Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week If you saw darkness in the image of the whirlpool on Rick Owens’s lenticular invite, you were right and wrong. In keeping with the last couple of seasons, Owens said he has human decline on his mind, but he’s not as fatalistic as that concept might suggest. Backstage ...
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Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week Maybe it seems hissy to harp on about punctuality. A tune about “fashion world problems” merits the world’s smallest violin. Yet the team at Ann Demeulemeester is so consistently late—at both menswear and womenswear—that the suspicion that they cultivate extravagant lateness as try-hard affectation becomes more compelling every ...
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Balmain Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week In June, news broke that Mayhoola, the investment group linked to the Qatari royal family, bought Balmain—just days before the fashion house’s menswear show in Paris. Mayhoola also acquired Valentino in 2012. And if that brand’s trajectory is anything to go by, Balmain and its creative director, Olivier Rousteing, ...
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Melitta Baumeister Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week After three years of constructing innovative garment shapes from industrial materials, Melitta Baumeister has finally made a collection that no longer feels so intimidating. This season marks a turning point for the New York–based designer, whose steadfast approach to stiff volumes has quite likely restricted her from achieving ...
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Manish Arora Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week Nothing quite prepares you for a blue Pomeranian—even when you remember him as being purple last season. But Fluffy the dog was one of many reprised ingredients that went into Manish Arora’s runway recipe for happiness. A choker fronted with a fried egg, rainbow-striped creepers, and My Little ...
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Paco Rabanne Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week You don’t get the feeling that Julien Dossena is going through the motions at Paco Rabanne. So many young designers who are airlifted into storied fashion houses take it as an opportunity to bend the meaning of the brand to whatever their own identity may be. Dossena, however, had ...
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Carven Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week In a season of this much industry shift and change, one might do well to remember the following: 1.) It is certainly not easy to be an entrepreneur, to break out and create your own brand. 2.) But it may in fact be harder to take up the reins ...
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Fenty x Puma Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week As one of the biggest pop stars on the planet, Rihanna isn’t a woman who is easily impressed. And yet, there is something about Paris that has her starstruck. It’s partly why she chose to show her new Fenty x Puma collection at the Hôtel Salomon de ...
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Chloé Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week After last season’s virtual motorcycle trip, Chloé’s Clare Waight Keller was in the mood for a more urban vibe. “I wanted to bring it back to the city. It was time to clean it up,” she said backstage, wearing an oversize white tee tucked into high-waisted pants. A version ...
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Wanda Nylon Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week Let’s congratulate Wanda Nylon’s Johanna Senyk—not for her well-deserved ANDAM win in July, but for resisting the temptation to let the award alter the raw allure of her brand. For while the turnout today may have been more substantial in quantity than before, and perhaps also in quality ...
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Vionnet Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week Following a few seasons of making optimistic excuses for Vionnet, it was a pleasure to see a collection in which many of the looks proved positive affirmations of the passion behind this unfashionable fashion house. Goga Ashkenazi put the staff of her atelier on the runway for the finale ...
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Dice Kayek Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week A visit to Dice Kayek’s Left Bank pop-up shop and temporary showroom began with an invitation to indulge in specialty rose-petal lokum (Turkish delight) and ended with a discussion of the recent coup d’état attempt in Turkey. Between the sweet and the serious, cofounder Ece Ege gave a ...
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Aganovich Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week A reading of Sophie Calle’s stylized exercise in stalking, Suite Vénitienne, opened an Aganovich show that combined magisterial anguish with carefully corralled disarray. Our heroines began their pursuit in ghostly, raw calico: a slish-slashed double-hemmed dress trailed with threads and a second with extravagantly ruched and plucked waves of ...
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Lemaire Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week Just when you thought you knew what you were going to get from Lemaire, designers Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran shake up the formula. Their Spring collection wasn’t a radical departure, but there were more than a few pleasant surprises. To click through last season’s show is to see ...
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Rochas Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week Since signing on to Rochas in 2013, Alessandro Dell’Acqua has put the accent on whimsy. A quick sweep of the e-commerce sites that stock the brand reveals duchesse satin floral-print skirts, gold lamé pants, and sequined Mary Janes, with the odd coat or two for ballast. For Spring, Dell’Acqua ...
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Guy Laroche Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week It is Adam Andrascik’s fourth season at the helm of Guy Laroche and, boy, can he cut a great pant. It may not always be in the fabric that you’d prefer—dark sparkly denim, say, or a sheer plasticky nylon—but it is of optimal proportions, long of leg and ...
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A.F. Vandevorst Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week For A.F. Vandevorst’s Spring collection, An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx worked with artist Dirk Braeckman on a short film to bring their designs to life—departing from their usual runway show format. The clip, which features a trio of recalcitrant misfits ranging around the Belgian music festival Pukkelpop, opens ...
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Maticevski Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week For Spring, there’s a rising tide of chatter around volume in clothing—and the wearability of revived forms and unconventional silhouettes in the day-to-day. We’ve seen it at Marni with gigantic cargo pockets; Jil Sander with statement shoulders; and at last night’s buzzy Jacquemus show with exaggerated shoulders and sleeves. ...
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Dries Van Noten Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week “We wanted a more brutal way of doing things,” declared Dries Van Noten, who must be the least brutalist designer on earth. “We just started to chop up garments and throw flower prints on. Everything contrasting!” But you got what he was talking about. Spontaneity, the energy ...
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Yang Li Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week Is it too soon to start pulling out fashion month trends? From Milan to Paris, already we have a series of similarities among the clothes—or is it the lack of clothes? From Anthony Vaccarello’s 1980s-inspired decadence (and diamanté pastie!) for his debut at Saint Laurent to the sheer ...
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