CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN SPRING/SUMMER 2015 LONDON FASHION WEEK

There was ambient techno at the Christopher Raeburn show in London. The soundtrack seemed especially apposite, because Raeburn’s latest collection summoned the same kind of glitchy tranquility. The glitches were in Raeburn’s techy, textural fabrics, which he deployed in signature fare such as tailored shorts and anoraks. Silk organza added a new, lightweight dimension as well. Spring isn’t usually Raeburn’s season, but his weightless outerwear was convincing: His digital weather-pattern-map prints were a standout, as was the candy pink parachute silk, which, as Raeburn explained after the show, was in fact undyed original parachute material used in humanitarian aid drops. That was one example of Raeburn’s unusually vivid palette, and the pink shade showed up again in heat-pressed color-block pieces that displayed an equally unusual abstract approach to pattern. The most surprising—and yet, upon consideration, unsurprising—pieces in this show were the silk organza ones with lacing detail. A touch redolent of Hood by Air, the garments featured deconstructed Chinese or Russian decompression flight suits, a reference wholly organic to Raeburn; this was no copycat situation, whatever the resemblance. On the whole, the collection showed Raeburn expanding his horizons, particularly in terms of color, pattern, and silhouette, while staying well within his métier. Bonus points for printed backpacks and the Tevas.

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