Edun – Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear
Personal style. It’s something the fashion industry likes to blather on about quite a bit, yet it’s more elusive than ever. It is hard to know what you do like when there are so many visuals cueing to what you should like. For Resort, Edun’s Danielle Sherman looked to three separate entities that authentically communicate true personal style: the teddy boys of London, the brightly suited sapeurs of sub-Saharan Africa as depicted in the 2009 book Gentlemen of Bacongo, and Coco Chanel in the 1920s. “They seem so different,” Sherman said at a showroom preview. “But each one influenced a movement.”
Different or not, the designer managed to nicely filter it all through her own lens. (Her vision often encompasses taking masculine ideas and silhouettes and making sense of them on a woman.) The double-breasted, peak-lapel blazer in electric pink—an homage to the sapeurs—was elongated but cut narrow enough to the body not to look like the wearer was swimming in it. In a nod to the teddy boys, Sherman used D-rings on tie-waist trousers and to decorate the sleeve of a classic cable-knit sweater. The collection’s top shoe was its mannish monk-strap oxford, which worked well with the tapered-leg pants.
The piece of the season, though, was a clever ode to Coco: a high-waist, mid-calf skirt that was pleated from the knee down. Sherman engineered the narrow proportions just right so that it worked as well with a waist-length top that accentuated the midsection as it did peeking out from under a boyish blazer. A drop-waist jumpsuit—the first all-in-one Sherman has ever designed for Edun—might end up being the collection’s best-seller, but the skirt was the thing to give a woman’s closet real personality.