ERDEM AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR LONDON
HAVING recently renovated his own home in East London, Erdem has all things interiors on his mind. And so, inspired by Robin Brown’s popular exhibition, The Collector at last year’s frieze masters, the scene today in Selfridges car park was a series of retro rooms clad in flocked wallpaper and filled with Mid-century furniture. There were velvet wing chairs positioned around a Scandinavian coffee table and side board, Sixties television sets, Murano-glass wall sconces, retro lamps, and Bakelite telephones, and in another room, a kidney-shaped dressing table with aerosol cans of Elnett.
What came next was a series of precious, sweet-paper-shiny brocade dresses in Quality Street pops of pink, purple and green with panelled bodices and tufted fraying seams.
Combined with the Fifties set, there was a feeling of heirloom dressing; of clothes being passed down through the generations, a vintage-looking leopard printed calf-hair coat is a good example, so too a purple houndstooth-check skirt suit that riffed on grandmother’s Chanel.
As always with Erdem, no expense is spared when it comes to rich opulent fabrics, that guipure lace dress in red and purple would be a prize piece in any woman’s wardrobe. But it wasn’t all about looking back; the way he morphed a skinny ribbed sweater into a weightless silk full skirt was pretty genius, and, like everything else here this morning, a real contender for any 21st century starlet.