Sofia Sizzi couldn’t contain herself backstage before Giulietta’s Spring runway show. The designer recently embarked on a more formal partnership with Cieffe Srl, the esteemed Italian factory where the Giulietta collection—alongside many big-name brands—is produced. Along with additional international sales support, Cieffe’s investment means that the New York-based Sizzi will be able to expand her product offering. First up, shoes—a category that Sizzi, during her 15 years working as a designer in New York, has conceived many times for other brands. Now’s her chance to put her own label on the innersole. “We’re going to be able to do so much more,” she said, sounding thrilled. It was a lovely thing to see, a designer with such hope and determination to get things done.

This collection was a wonderful way to start. Inspired by the Surrealist artist Dora Maar—whose Untitled (Hand and Shell) Sizzi stumbled upon this summer in Venice—the designer’s favorite midi lengths and crepe fabrics were back, just amped up a notch thanks to her refreshed confidence. For instance, several crepe lilac looks were decorated with black paillettes made to mimic seashells, and a lemon-yellow rose print was fashioned into a minidress with black panels coming down the sides, causing the silhouette to lean out. Dresses and skirts had pleating details on one hip only, putting an emphasis on the female form. Elsewhere, Sizzi’s fan favorite, the second-skin jumpsuit, was done in white crepe with lemon and lilac details and paired with lilac pumps adorned with a chunky crystal. The sculptural heels offered that late ’60s-early ’70s sheen Sizzi likes so much. It was the kind of footwear that the film stars the designer holds in such high regard—Monica Vitti, Catherine Deneuve, Sophia Loren—would love. The Giulietta customer is likely to feel the same way.