JIL SANDER NAVY AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
For the team at Jil Sander Navy, Fall was very much about the late ’60s, an era many are sucking the marrow from this season. And who can blame them? There’s something perennially appealing about the mod-schoolgirl look, rendered here in a navy inverted-pleat skirt that was blocked with burgundy diagonal stripes, a wool camel trench with a sharp leather collar, and a belted white jacket paired with a matching A-line skirt and modified go-go boots.
But many of these styles can easily be stamped out with a cookie cutter. Consider the prints: The chevron silk jacquard and the metallic floral brocade were a little too generic to please. Things were better when there was a sporty, tomboyish element brought in, such as a detachable nylon hood snapped onto everything from a quilted dress to a classic blazer. The wide-cuff Bermuda shorts—which echoed the silhouette that defined main-collection designer Rodolfo Paglialunga’s Spring debut—were also good.
Just four years old, Jil Sander Navy is still relatively new and has yet to really define itself apart from the main collection, which has undergone several transformations during that time, as well. The last couple of seasons, the team has worked to make the diffusion line more youthful and playful. Fall’s alligator motif, inspired by Chinese shadow puppetry and shown on a cute sweatshirt and as a leather trinket, emphasized that. It could even become a must-have, which is an encouraging sign.