JULIEN MACDONALD AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR LONDON FASHION WEEK
To a front row of popstrels and reality TV stars, Julien Macdonald offered up his customary trawl through the outer reaches of the red carpet. And, “trawl” being the operative word, much of the cutwork that Macdonald showed felt like literal nets set to entangle the hapless ingenue in a web of glamorous sin.
He began decades ago as the go-to guy with the knitting needles. Jools is still the man who put the Mac in macramé, but the serpentine body-consciousness of his designs has become something of a cliché. Quite what Macdonald would do instead is moot, especially when he was showing to a front row who were perfectly happy to turn out first thing on a Saturday morning in outfits that looked like last call in a Moscow disco. He knows these women. So a Lurex knit sheath with action gusseting all the way up the side seam was second nature to him. Likewise, a catsuit in what looked like stretch terry from six feet away. A goddess gown in antique sequins had a certain gravitas, bar the sheer inserts running armpit to ankle. A trio of fringed, metallic, Diana the Huntress outfits at the very end of the show were sophisticated showgirl, in the nicest possible way.
It would be reassuring to think that Macdonald had someone in mind for every single one of these looks. Otherwise, he would just be pissing in the wind. But there is no denying his technique, and—last laugh territory here—its go-girl glamour is so perfectly applicable to the creatures who populate Terra Digitalis that he should soon be colliding with Planet Kardashian if there is truly a God in the machine.