KAELEN SPRING/SUMMER 2015 NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

Kaelen’s Spring forecast is looking flirty. Spurred by an image of a tropical bloom, designer Kaelen Haworth turned out an offering that felt girlish (or, perhaps, womanish) without sacrificing a bit of sophistication. The tension between masculine and feminine has long been a Kaelen preoccupation, and while she maintained many of her chicly boxy shapes for Spring, there was a newfound sex appeal to them. It spoke to a sense of languidness that came through in dramatic cowl-back dresses; a particularly ethereal, iridescent chiffon; and oversize flounces (another recurring accent in Haworth’s collections).

Steamy climes got a nod in the form of an emerald macro-botanical print, brazen by the label’s usual standards. Elsewhere, Resort’s ultra-fluid laser-cut neoprene was brought back in a floral pattern, but thanks to bonding techniques it maintained a bit of the techy “weirdness” (read: stiffness, volume, and uncanny hand-feel) of which Haworth is an avowed fan. Then there were easy blush-colored jumpsuits and separates, and some utterly cool pieces in both white linen and a textured, carpet-y blend trimmed with long, swingy fringe that zipped on and off. The latter proved to be standouts of the collection and were one of Haworth’s most successful experiments with convertibility to date.

Each look here had a sense of lightness and ease, which resonated particularly well on a scorching September afternoon, and also made apparent the label’s growth over the past few seasons. It’s worth noting that this is Haworth’s first full offering since she joined the third class of the CFDA’s Incubator development program. One can happily look forward to what she’ll be sending out come Fall.

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