MAISON RABIH KAYROUZ AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR PARIS FASHION WEEK

For the first time since his early days as a designer, Rabih Kayrouz staged his collection at his Left Bank atelier. This meant dramatically reducing the guest list by two-thirds. It also meant that guests had been invited into Maison Rabih Kayrouz, and the outcome felt exceptionally heartfelt—from the magazine-worthy spread of lemonade and sesame cookies to the tears flowing from both designer and supporters alike (we’re looking at you, Ikram Goldman).

The clothes captured Kayrouz at ease. Of principal interest to him this season was the “freedom of movement of the gesture,” which he achieved by venting jackets so that hands could find their way into pants pockets without obstruction. Similarly, he moved easily between tailored dresses in double crepe and fluid robes in felt. Their commonality: hand-formed and -painted ceramic marbles affixed to the garments like a solar system of talismans.

Kayrouz mentioned the importance of placement in communicating a relaxed attitude. In this way, a blue-and-white striped shirt constructed to tilt back from the neckline had the same effect as a V-neck pinstriped dress forced forward. The sole incongruity here: A fuchsia ikat and traditional tartan bore little relation to the other. At least the occurrence of a small straggler flap drifting from its pack had a playful purpose: direct access to the navel. Still, Kayrouz stopped shy of ever revealing too much—in senses literal and emotional. If you didn’t know any better, you might describe the collection as toned down. He kept heart at great length from sleeve.