Marcelo Burlon County of Milan Spring 2017 Menswear

Point number one about Marcelo Burlon is that his casting is awesome; female, male, black, white, tall, short, young, old . . . whatever. These are beautiful people wherever you’re coming from. Point number two is that he is fully plugged into a slightly tiresome gothic font oversized post-Balmain (pre-Rousteing), post-Vetements, post-Pablo aesthetic— though to be fair he was there pre–many of these.

This collection represented a thematic chord change in that many of its sources were rooted in heavy metal. Wha . . . ? The sense was made via Burlon’s Patagonian roots. During Argentina’s Dirty War, many foreign bands were banned and in their stead an illicit homegrown crop of acts emerged. Tonight Burlon paid tribute to them in the emblems on his oversized streetwear templates. He interjected color, big style, and had some interesting new tweaks of his creative fretboard including cinch-backed biker Bermuda shorts in leather and disconcertingly mumsy pearl accessories. The Alpha Industries bomber jackets patched with the names of those bands plus shuriken “ninja star” motifs were awesome, while the graphic Lambo-collab pieces a tad less exciting. Burlon, though, is a force who’s well worth reckoning with.