MARCO DE VINCENZ AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR MILAN FASHION WEEK

Marco de Vincenzo’s rise has been steady but not swift. The Roman designer with long experience in Fendi’s ateliers did four years of runway shows before LVMH took an interest and invested in his brand. A year into the relationship, de Vincenzo seems to be making smart use of the additional zeros in his bank balance. The pieces that have gotten him the most attention so far have been Lurex-shot and rainbow-hued, distinctly evening-oriented. For Fall he adapted those codes for day, where, of course, the real retail money is. Lean cuts of denim—culottes, a midi-length coat—were over-dyed in a way that will look familiar to followers of de Vincenzo’s work. Last season’s yards and yards of brightly hued silk fringe, meanwhile, returned here in scaled-down form, electric blue trimming the seams of a brown pencil skirt or bright orange edging the neckline of a short gray pinafore dress.

De Vincenzo has an undeniable penchant for embellishment, and there was a significant amount of it here: cabochon studs on shearling jackets, diamond- and lozenge-shaped thread embroideries on lace dresses and wool coats, and most interestingly, laser-cut tunics and skirts woven checkerboard-style with contrasting color strips. Decoration is de Vincenzo’s design signature, and he’s certainly got a unique take on it. Still, nothing resonated quite like the comparatively simple micro-cable-knit dresses with their thin stripes of vibrant, vertical colors. There were just a few of them, but we would have been happy to see a whole lot more.