MARKUS LUPFER SPRING/SUMMER 2015 LONDON FASHION WEEK

Markus Lupfer is a fun guy. The German designer has nailed the formula for light, youthful clothes, and for Spring he had surfing in mind. The scene was set as a beachside café, complete with wooden boardwalk, tiki hut, martinis, surfboards, and a lot of dancing models.

Ocean waves made their way onto a jacquard print with Lurex threading that mimicked water in motion. It came in aqua blue and sea green, and was used on sweaters, party dresses, bomber jackets, and miniskirts. Vinyl holographic pieces that changed color in certain lights stood out: The models, when asked, said the clothes were comfortable, not sweat-inducing (they had cotton on the back, and were loosely cut). Wet-suit detailing and zips that were reminiscent of life jackets reinforced Lupfer’s theme. Mannish trousers in that wavelike pattern had a sporty tomboy feel.

Lupfer showed off his cutting skills with a trompe l’oeil effect on the vinyl skirts: They were designed to look like a wraparound but were actually made from one piece. The result was a clean, tight look. The kicker was the shoes—jellies with crystal details in Chiclet gum colors that represented the designer’s first move into the footwear market. The playful shoes may also have been influenced by Lupfer’s newest project: He’s in the process of creating a childrenswear line for Lane Crawford.

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