TODAY sees the opening of Marni’s flower market – for one day only – at the Rontonda Della Besana. Set to be a riot of colour and creation, proceeds from the pop-up – which will sell fashion and homewares – will go towards supporting children’s organisations in keeping with the brand’s philanthropic approach to life.
Today on the catwalk, meanwhile, that approach translated as a collection injected with raw, traveller spirit and back-to-front appeal.
Raw because of the colours – to begin beige, oatmeal and stark white and later bright daffodil yellow and grass green, nothing was tempered here – and because of the asymmetric wrap skirts and kimono-style or patch-worked together dresses, the trailing laces from apron-like styles. There seemed to be a modesty.
But there was a crafted and artisanal element too – through mosaic and jet black floral embellishment on a canvas of clothes in biscuit tones. There was nothing prim or proper about these – as there shouldn’t be with Marni (only when it’s subverting the role of someone being prim and proper).
The back-to-front came through long-sleeved tops and outerwear layers that plunged at the back but were built up around the neck or whose front fastenings veered off, chicane-style, off round the shoulder. There was introverted appeal here ideal for those who like to play at being shy and which was perfect to go with the awkward oversized sleeves that hung well beneath wrists.
On feet there came a sandal-trainer hybrid, tapping right into where the shoe zeitgeist is at now and which are bound to be spotted on many a front row next season.
While initially devoid of florals – and surprisingly so given today’s special event – they came later and were more than made up for in those bright bright colours or were seen as tightly ruched blooms on a beautiful summer coat.