MUGLER SPRING/SUMMER 2015 PARIS FASHION WEEK

DAVID KOMA was appointed artistic director at Mugler at the end of last year and it was, simply, a match made in heaven and something of a no brainer.

Succeeding Nicola Formichetti in the role (he went off to Diesel), Koma was the perfect fit, a Central Saint Martins-trained designer who built his name on all things svelte and sculpted. Mugler’s ingredients? Exactly the same.

That said, Koma wanted his debut today (he does though hold a pre-collection to his name for the house already) to be the start of something new, a blank canvas he declared in the show notes . What that translated as was a collection that could have easily walked off his very own catwalk for his eponymous line: it was body-hugging with cut-outs and highlighted contours; slices and shavings of hardware; lots of black and white; and lots of sexy dresses. “Erogenous zones are distinct,” read the notes.

That’s no problem – that is, after all, why he was the right man for the job, bringing with him a gloss and sophistication where Formichetti”s Mugler had been more about sensation and spectacle – remember Lady Gaga taking a turn on the catwalk?

There was no Gaga here – literally or in terms of the clothes, which did what they set out to do – but there was Karlie Kloss and Georgia Jagger on the catwalk to carry off Koma’s confident, empowered Mugler woman.

Jessica Bumpus

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