OLYMPIA LE TAN AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR PARIS FASHION WEEK

“People have been saying I’m too sexy,” Olympia Le-Tan said before her show tonight. She was referring to the fact that some reviewers feel her penchant for tongue-in-cheek pinup references can detract from her clothes. And so tonight she favored artsy charm over any overt displays of T & A. Happily, there was still an infectious oomph to this richly expressed version of that near-universal feminine fantasy of being a ballerina. Le-Tan threw in some drug references—mushrooms in her press release, LSD in conversation—and a shot, too, of Kate Bush, who was on the soundtrack. That, though, was a prism. The heart of this collection was a boho evocation of the Ballets Russes, mediated via prints drawn by the designer’s dad, Pierre, along with harlequin decoration, tulle (inevitably), and ankle-strapped Louboutins. Stephen Jones’ Nureyev feather crowns, plus spangly tops and the ballet-themed bags all added to the sense of fun.