PACO RABANNE AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR PARIS FASHION WEEK

Nicolas Ghesquière’s disciples are spread far and wide in Paris these days. There’s Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud, whose Carven debut this morning was so indebted to Ghesquière’s signature silhouette. There’s the Coperni duo, one of whom worked at Balenciaga; they’re up for the LVMH Prize this year. And then there’s Julien Dossena, another former Ghesquière assistant, and the most accomplished of the group, with four runway shows under his belt for Paco Rabanne as of this afternoon. Dossena’s confident collection should assure him a prolonged tenure at this Puig-owned label, the incessant personnel changes all around him in the fashion industry notwithstanding.

What was different this time out was how boldly and adroitly Dossena attended to Paco’s signature chain-link dresses. In past collections he de-emphasized direct influences, but here shifts and short flared pants made from smoky plastic disks were the centerpieces. The ribbed knits he layered underneath them were a clever touch; they ensured the see-through looks remained classy and discreet. For every callback, though, there was another outfit that felt distinctly modern in its mashed-up-ness, be it a jumpsuit—deep nylon bands at the hem lending it a mannish swagger, and D-rings at the waist giving it a sexy shape—or a tracksuit cocktail dress, spliced with lingerie mesh on either side of its zip front. Dossena, like his teacher, is a bit of a scientist, always experimenting. His projects ran from streetwear-influenced neoprene jackets to sleek vests with sophisticated double lapels, the latter of which were the technical accomplishment. Extra credit for the boots with the Lucite slices wedged into the heels.