PHILIPP PLEIN AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR MILAN FASHION WEEK
Philipp Plein is engaged in a game of one-upmanship with himself. One season, a flaming vintage car; another season, a water-skier. Tonight he might’ve outdone himself. How do you top a spotlit roller coaster stuffed with models and Azealia Banks for an opening act? It won’t be easy.
As for his new Fall clothes, they were a complete turnaround from last season’s 1950s fit-and-flare dresses. Plein has keyed into the streetwear trend exemplified by brands like HBA and VFiles. A little late, it must be said, but the look is a good fit for Plein, who’s been in the business of elevating everyday denim for the last decade. Here, he dialed down on the studs that are his signature in favor of fur, and lots of it. Fox and mink sports jerseys, coats, and stoles were intarsia-ed with #PLEIN, WARRIOR, or 78, the year the designer was born in Munich. Underneath: cutout body-con dresses in snakeskin or skintight black vinyl catsuits.
Plein dubbed his collection There Will Be No Miracles Here. A quick Google search leads to a piece that the installation artist Nathan Coley spelled out in bright neon lights at the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art. That connection seems tenuous at best. More likely the phrase has something to do with Plein’s unapologetically straightforward approach to fashion. He’s not inventing anything—indeed there were nods to Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent in the fedoras and thigh-grazing capes—but he’s having a great time doing it. The models threw their hands in the air as the roller-coaster cars did their spin around the room. We’re not going to be the killjoys who begrudge anyone a feeling like that.