WITH her shiny new store open on Mount Street and the rebrand of her label to Roksanda, there’s a noted simplicity to Roksanda Ilincic’s aesthetic now. The romance and otherworldly nature she started out with (all tumbling peonies on draped gowns once upon a time) now replaced by something more succinct. But then she’s grown up, her fashion contemporaries – Nicholas Kirkwood and Christopher Kane among them – have too and they’ve set up shop just down the road from her also.
“It was about paring everything down, simple shapes, circles and squares, colour-blocking,” she said backstage after the show – the stark and architectural set of which was built by Gard Card. Ilincic referenced the artist Julia Dault as influence – Ilincic is known for her penchant for arts – in the Perspex embellishments that hung like badges from strong and bold silhouettes, or “primary shapes” as the show notes described.
And everything about this collection was strong and bold: the hyper neon colours; the sharp folds on stealthy silhouettes – boxy boyish tailoring, techno shirts; geometric prints and sculptural detailing. On dirndl-skirt dresses came ribbon scribbles to mimic wiring – the colours throughout would indeed have you wired and at the very least certainly required sunglasses. Orange, turquoise, pink, blue, red jarring in saturation together.
But it was also a bright start to the day for more than just that.