This year, Sachin and Babi Ahluwalia decided to split their namesake label into two parts, breaking off eveningwear into a new collection called Noir. But Sachin & Babi—the contemporary line—is still very much in play, and this season the Ahluwalias wanted to take their signature embroideries and textiles in a more athletic-inspired direction. “Young, energetic, sporty,” was how Sachin described Spring 2015. It was certainly all of those things: a sort of city girl’s take on a basketball uniform. A pair of black leather drawstring shorts were worn with an organza trapeze top, and Pollock-esque paint splatters were printed onto running shorts and a sweatshirt made out of reversible sequins. (A sequined tank dress piped in white got the same treatment to great effect.) The husband-and-wife duo also dreamt up their own Rorschach print, which served as a motif on a series of intarsia sweaters and dresses. It was also embroidered onto a few pieces, the fringe hanging down from the bottom of the designs so that it almost resembled dripping ink. It looked better that way, especially when done in white on a black tank dress made of a netting the designers nicknamed “subwoofer fabric,” because of its resemblance to a speaker grille. While the Ahluwalias had fun with painted leather and chevron embroideries, too, it was a white motorcycle jacket patchworked with different geometric eyelets that pulled the collection together, offering a palate cleanser.

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