For Spring, Saloni Lodha’s thoughts turned to the Silk Road—especially Samarkand, the Central Asian city revered for its embroidery, engraving, and abundance of colors, like copper, lapis, and jade. Her inspiration may have been exotic, but she’s aware that her customers’ lives often aren’t. “What’s wrong with dressing the normal girl?” the designer asked rhetorically but earnestly. Lodha looks at her clients’ wardrobe issues like a puzzle to be solved: She provides wonderfully outspoken patterns and clashes of color, but splices in wearable shapes and sedate everyday pieces, such as a crisp white woven dress and a canary yellow tailored jacket.

Standouts included a fluted skirt in a Bokhara pattern, teamed with an easy crop top—throw on the checked bomber jacket and it would be a great day-to-night outfit. A dobby-weave maxi dress in pale orange with a touch of tailoring in a cotton weave collar paid homage to the Silk Road’s ancient tradition of weaving, while being practical for modern city dressing. Patterns and textures were mixed up compellingly; a Bokhara-print blouse worn against checked gray culottes was striking. Saloni’s business has been growing, and that should continue with this tight collection. The designer is on the Silk Road to success.