Five days before Sonia Rykiel unveils its new look under the artistic direction of Julie de Libran, its diffusion line, Sonia by Sonia Rykiel, served as a brand constant—expanding upon its previous season while respecting the boundaries soon to be defined by the incoming collection in chief.
Pink has always received preferential treatment at Rykiel. Here the “dissonance” from a rosy hue matched with lime green was deliberate, and arguably a tad forced. But because the eye loves a color challenge, it quickly accepted this setup, whether as a two-tone knit maxi dress in viscose or, later in the lineup, when sprightly green bananas appeared on pink silk pajamas. A mesh sweaterdress, athletic logo sweatshirt, and peony pink slip-ons confirmed that the city-chic thrust of previous collections had moved on to a sport-centric momentum. But in much the same way that Parisiennes will never wholeheartedly embrace gym culture, a basketball-jersey dress emblazoned with the number 15 benefited from standby Rykiel sequins, and a knee-length varsity jacket rightly demanded black cigarette pants and smart pink-trimmed flats. Essentially, the collection had more novelty appeal than long-term endurance, which perhaps was the point, given de Libran’s imminent influence. For the time being, though, there seems to be enough attitude to play all sides.