SPORTMAX AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR MILAN FASHION WEEK

A crisp gust of chilly winter wind swept the Sportmax catwalk, according to the press notes. Not that the models were particularly covered up—their legs were often bare, which made for a contrast with the massive rawhide wedges they wore throughout. Windswept meant instead that the sculptural coats and skirts, humungous jumpers, and pragmatic suits were coarse, grainy, and decidedly protective, all firm volumes and waists nipped with a knotted belt.

The preoccupation with the organic has been going on for quite a while in fashion, so this could hardly be big news. Sportmax, admittedly, has been at the forefront of the trend from the beginning. This collection reaffirmed an interest in raw and textured surfaces, with a stress on knitwear. It was all about a charming coziness and a certain ease: streamlined and well edited.

The label seems to have finally found its niche in the contemporary fashion landscape: It sits alongside the purists, focusing on shape and texture in place of frilly, useless decoration. The designers are Céline alumni, at times too evidently so. Yet they also own a peculiar spirit—young, dynamic, unfussy. This collection was not a major departure for Sportmax, but it was certainly a high point.