Tadashi Shoji – Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear

There was a hint of nostalgia in Tadashi Shoji’s Resort collection, which was inspired by childhood memories of his mother stitching kimonos using the Sashiko embroidery technique. (Sashiko, which means “little stabs,” are reinforced stitches arranged in different geometric shapes and patterns.) Many of those traditional kimonos are blue with white stitching, and Shoji stuck to that color palette. But while the designer’s fond memories played into things, this wasn’t an overly sentimental collection. That is thanks, in part, to his thoroughly modern renderings. There were white lace bomber jackets that could serve as 2016’s answer to the evening pashmina, jacquard cocktail dresses that mimic patchwork quilting, and long tulle skirts embroidered with starbursts. Shoji used a good amount of scuba for his day-ish looks, including a body-con dress with a bomber-shaped top. That dense material is feeling less fresh than it did two or three years ago. The more successful looks paired sporty or relaxed silhouettes with ethereal fabrics.