TEMPERLEY LONDON AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR LONDON
The fact that Alice Temperley’s show fell on the same day as the Oscars occasioned some thinking about the state of formalwear. The clothes on the Temperley runway were dressy, but they had a relaxed mien—a far cry from the trussed-up looks due to be broadcast from L.A. that evening. Red-carpet dressing has become almost completely detached from reality. Temperley, on the other hand, embraced it—witness the chillaxed glam of Jacquetta Wheeler, visibly pregnant, catwalking the designer’s long, slinky slipdress covered in bronze-toned sequins, a duster-length parka thrown over her shoulders. That wasn’t the strongest look here, but it felt modern. The standouts, meanwhile, were the jumpsuits—a velvet one with long sleeves and a diving neckline, especially—and the flowing trousers that Temperley offered for day and for evening. Elsewhere, this nomad-themed collection crescendoed in the intarsia knits featuring bold, vaguely tribal motifs, with the multicolored maxi dresses a particular highlight. The pants were the key silhouette here, though, one of the nods to Poiret that made you recall that formal looks haven’t always been fussy. There are other ways of summoning drama.