Jun Takahashi’s Undercover collections normally have a message, however you don’t should get his deeper meanings to understand what he does. After his present on the Cirque d’Hiver at present, Takahashi talked about righteous aggression. “The individuals should be sturdy,” he mentioned. His backstage sentiments jibed with a soundtrack that featured a stay model of the Rolling Stones’s music for the have-nots, “Salt of the Earth.”

Takahashi got here at his insurrectionary message each subtly and fewer so. To start out, he mashed up jackets and coats with backpacks to present his tailoring a ready-for-battle perspective. There have been zip-up pockets back and front and on the hips; some jackets had been so reworked that their fronts had been mere straps protecting naked breasts. It may’ve been a foolish train, however Takahashi is a intelligent tailor, with a depraved humorousness. In one other signal he’s down with the individuals, he co-opted low-culture live performance T-shirts for high-fashion functions. The Stones’s younger faces stared out from contained in the 4 fits of a card deck on a miniskirt and on the hems of pants. For each “have-not,” there’s a “have.” Takahashi turned playing-card royals right into a print on blazers with the kings’ and queens’ eyes blacked out just like the don’ts on a do’s-and-don’ts record.

Royalty is a motif Takahashi has used earlier than to equally witty impact, however the vibe was barely extra incendiary this time round. Oversize floral prints might’ve been exploding bombs. Maybe not. Both approach, his tweaked and twisted sportswear is straightforward to get behind.