YEOHLEE AW15’16 READY-TO-WEAR NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
Yeohlee Teng often thinks about her fabrics before she starts designing a collection, and for Fall ’15, she was particularly dedicated to her “no waste” policy. Instead of discarding the extra fabric from a jacquard, she used it on the yolk of a sweater or as paneling down the side of a pencil skirt. “Mathemagical,” is what she called the results. “There’s an artfulness in the repeating jacquards, but we were conscious about not throwing away piles of fabric,” she explained. The collection was more or less comprised of Yeohlee signatures—generous silhouettes, color-blocking, and an “urban jungle” palette of black, pewter, off-white, and red.
But a closer look revealed some new technical details that Teng’s customers will appreciate: For example, a black double-face cocoon coat had a graceful oval shape and reversed to a deep plum. Teng loves a two-for-one moment. Similarly, she played with proportions and visual tricks on a slick raincoat—from the front, it was sleek and double-breasted, but a top layer could be unbuttoned to reveal a zippered shell underneath. It was subtle, but the Yeohlee shopper isn’t looking for bells and whistles. The boldest looks were the ones that channeled Sol LeWitt, with graphic curvilinear lines dancing across a silk draped jacket and flared trousers. They weren’t technically complex, but their fluidity was enticing.