True to Derek Lam’s signature aesthetic, each of his lower-priced Derek Lam 10 Crosby collections is a balancing act between simplicity and maximalism, structure and ease, masculine and feminine, technical and natural, and the list goes on. Inspired by contemporary collage artists Fred Free and Sigrid Sandström—who often work with common materials such as corrugated cardboard, manila envelopes, and aged newsprint—10 C’s new Spring lineup assumed a “cut ‘n’ paste” theme.

Giving classic military references a clever twist, vice president of design Liz Giardina whipped up cropped patch-pocket jackets, vest dresses, and wrap skirts boasting leather luggage details from a sturdy cotton canvas. The jackets were paired with fluttery midi skirts and espadrilles to modern effect. Equally cool was a two-in-one dress that combined a compact knit bodice with habotai pleating. Treating hardware as built-in jewelry, that standout look came adorned with a slim gold band that highlighted the waist.

Elsewhere, Giardina focused on a predominantly neutral color palette, pairing bonded crepe jackets (in soft hues evoking Free’s and Sandström’s use of masking tape or gesso) with tonal tank tops and fluid matching trousers. Other winning moments included high-waisted jacquard flares, crisp pinstripe shirting, and a belted trench cut from washed linen silk in a beautiful shade of agave blue.