Monthly Archives June 2015

MSGM Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear Of late, Massimo Giorgetti has been on a quest to drive MSGM outside of the "print brand" niche where it originally blossomed. The movement coincided with a rejection of pop in favor of something more grown-up. The show that he presented today in the usual industrial space, with its clinical-white metal grids and ...

Nasir Mazhar Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear Knowing that Nasir Mazhar's father passed away a few months ago made it impossible not to notice that the collection he presented for Spring was almost all black. And while the designer said both that he "felt empty" and that he had wanted to accentuate the masculinity of the models, it ...

Neil Barrett Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear Funny thing: Neil Barrett's last men's collection so thoroughly revisited his past that he couldn't really go there again. He'd been speaking the same language for so long that it was past time to find something new to say. That could have presented an overwhelming challenge for Barrett, a designer whose ...

Moncler Gamme Bleu Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear In short, this was Gamme Bleu goes rowing. In long—and today's ode to oarsmen lasted only slightly less time than an Oxford vs. Cambridge boat race—this was a rich-through-repetition testament to the breadth of fabrication and the depth of technique at Moncler's disposal. There were two boats, each with twice ...

Missoni Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear The Missoni man is on a roll. That's because he's still on the road, and nothing suits his style like a judicious sampling of the places he's been. India was the destination for Spring 2016. Angela Missoni's models walked on a rose-petal-strewn catwalk in clothes that fused Italian artisanship and Indian inspiration ...

Matthew Miller Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear One of the most striking outfits in Matthew Miller's Spring presentation featured a smartly tailored blazer over a linen tunic that hung in shredded tatters. Miller said that was how he felt after two months of writing a business plan to submit to the BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund. (Patrick Grant of ...

Marni Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear Marni is an Italian luxury fashion label founded by Consuelo Castiglioni in 1994, who remains as the label's designer. The fashion line started in 1994, when Castiglioni became known for her contributions to the design of fur,stemming from her husband's family fur business. At the time, fur was typically designed in an old-fashioned ...

Margaret Howell Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear "You know when you go to your wardrobe and something doesn't feel right anymore, maybe it's too small? That change—it happens almost imperceptibly," Margaret Howell said after her show. "It is a feeling that affects cuts, materials." Sometimes a designer doesn't need a story to explain a collection, because the story ...

Ports 1961 Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear Many have tried to co-opt elements of surf and skate culture into luxury apparel. Invariably, though, the distance between the two proves too much to bridge and the results wear like Gleaming the Cube was to watch. This Ports 1961 proposition, though, wasn't a million miles away from landing it. Tony ...

Prada Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear Miuccia Prada has hardly done her male clientele a service by showing her Spring collection for men alongside her Resort collection for women. "Women beat men to zero," she conceded cheerfully after her latest exercise in a catwalk marriage of the genders. But, with this show at least, Mrs. P. added some ...

Pringle of Scotland Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear There were plenty of miffed editors on the benches at 10 Corso Como when this show finally started. This is perhaps not the spot to conduct parish business, but the Camera Della Moda seems resolutely ignorant—or, worse, indifferent—to the tedium and the lost time it generates by forcing everyone to ...