Stella McCartney - Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear Stella McCartney practices an optimistic, energetic kind of fashion, but Resort really brings out her sunny side. It's so persuasive that the rain clouds that lingered over New York for the better part of a week broke temporarily for her Elizabeth Street garden party last night. The theme was ...
Suno - Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear According to Suno's Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis, their starting point for the label's latest collection was "modern folk." The folk elements were pretty self-evident: naive floral prints and embroideries, cotton eyelet, and craft embellishments such as a macramé trim. The duo came at the modern, meanwhile, from a rather ...
Tadashi Shoji - Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear There was a hint of nostalgia in Tadashi Shoji's Resort collection, which was inspired by childhood memories of his mother stitching kimonos using the Sashiko embroidery technique. (Sashiko, which means "little stabs," are reinforced stitches arranged in different geometric shapes and patterns.) Many of those traditional kimonos are blue ...
Temperley London - Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear Next September will mark the 15th-anniversary collection of Temperley London, but today the Somerset cider farming scion who started it confessed that, in some respects, the label is still finding its stride. Daywear, for instance, was formerly penned within the Alice diffusion line. Now given equal billing with the ...
Tanya Taylor - Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear Tanya Taylor shot her lookbook on a mossy patch of Connecticut land, with colored smoke bombs exploding in the background of each picture. It was a cool effect that complemented the bursts of color in her lively prints, including a hand-painted floral that landed on pretty chiffon dresses and ...
Tamara Mellon - Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear How Xanadu can a collection go without it feeling kitsch? Pretty far, as long as you forgo the roller skates. Tamara Mellon proved as much with her Resort collection, which was inspired by a "cosmic woman." Mellon showed a cold-shoulder blouse in the prettiest pale blue, a peach dress ...
ZAC Zac Posen - Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear What does the path from #CookingWithZac to clothing by Zac look like? That was the question Posen addressed with his little sister line's Resort outing, a riff on his love of the culinary arts, writ large. Those who follow the designer on Instagram are well versed in both ...
Zero + Maria Cornejo - Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear Maria Cornejo has a thriving bathing suit business, but as she said when we walked into her showroom this morning: "It's not about the beach." Actually, her notes framed it that way. She put it a lot more bluntly: "Resort is the mistress of all the collections, ...
Z Zegna Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear Z Zegna's guest show at Pitti Uomo (which included a highly entertaining acrobatic extravaganza) marked the relaunch of the label. Zegna Sport has essentially been folded into the Z Zegna range with the intention of creating a line of youthful, high-performance clothes that still focus on quality materials and slick Italian ...
Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear "Salva Venezia" (Save Venice) read the plea on the Magic Mike-esque, extremely briefs that were the faintest of underline south of a crop top and turban in the first look. By framing this collection around Venice, Dame Vivienne Westwood and Andreas Kronthaler hit upon a rare accord between clothes presented and ...
Versace Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear "I love drama," Donatella Versace announced backstage. "You know I'm a drama queen." So, with silk scarves billowing, sand underfoot, and a suitably dramatic quote from Lawrence of Arabia projected on the back wall ("No Man Needs Nothing"), the Versace show space on Via Gesù was turned into a vast and luxurious ...
Topman Design Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear "Danz Like You're Northern" was the slogan on the tank top above the patch-print pants. Northern soul—a '70s incubated, post-mod, pre-disco underground dance scene centered around obscure rhythm and blues that was big beyond the Midlands—remains one of Britain's most evocative style tribes. Both the dancing and the clothes were expressions ...
Tod's Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear In three seasons Andrea Incontri has insinuated something of himself into the output of Tod's—which is an achievement considering that this is a brand that has always been so powerfully authored by its owner. Incontri has pulled off this feat by making sure to pay assiduous fealty to the codes and tone ...
Tiger Of Sweden Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear According to people in retail, Tiger of Sweden has become the go-to brand for many men in banking, guys who are looking to up their style game with a skinny suit. The men's reaction is, reportedly: "I look so young!" Being competitively priced and "on trend" has brought the brand, ...
Sibling Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear "Jocks are bastards" was more or less the substance of the J.D. Salinger quote from The Catcher in the Rye that prefaced the Sibling threesome's spring manifesto. But the show that followed was more pitcher than catcher, more wry than rye. If it was an ode to college football—complete with a handful ...
Versace - Pre Spring Summer 2016 Ready To Wear It might not have been a Versace first, but it definitely qualified as news today that the main shoe in the house's Resort collection was a plastic pool slide. Let's put it this way: It's not a Donatella shoe, although a company rep did report that she ...
Victoria Beckham - Pre Spring Summer 2016 Ready To Wear Pre-collections aren't a new thing for Victoria Beckham. Resort 2016 is her fourth, but it's the first one she's opted to show to the press. "I feel like I know my customer now, what she wants from me," Beckham said, explaining why she thought this one ...
Vionnet - Pre Spring Summer 2016 Ready To Wear Spring has sprung at Vionnet: The Resort collection was presented in a showroom that had been transformed into a garden replete with ivy, lilies, and various other types of flowers. The spring-like mood trickled down to the lineup, infused with delicate colors and references galore to nature ...
Wes Gordon - Pre Spring Summer 2016 Ready To Wear For Resort, Wes Gordon's story was a colorful one. "It's happy," said the designer, whose endless fascination with the '90s led him to a series of saturated Steven Meisel photographs, from which he extracted the deep coral and sky blue that tinted his lace of the ...
Whistles - Pre Spring Summer 2016 Ready To Wear When called upon to write about a fashion collection, it's easy to love a concept. The clothes might not be so great, but at least a high concept gives you something to reckon against, a set of ideas enticing to unpack and discuss. Whistles, the British high-street ...
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