Adam Lippes – Pre AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR

Adam Lippes, like so many fashion designers, is an architecture buff. He said he was looking at the Japanese architect Kengo Kuma for Pre-Fall. “His work is traditional but modern and simple, like what we’re trying to do here,” he commented, adding that it’s his dream to have Kuma design a home for him. The designer, who relaunched his business 14 months ago, has found fast success; he makes sophisticated American sportswear with a luxurious streak. He treaded lightly on his chosen theme here; the lace back of a cardigan sweater and the ribbon embroidery on a coat echoed the graphic fretwork on Kuma’s buildings. Otherwise, this was a collection of elevated essentials. A summery white three-piece pantsuit in quilted trapunto; a sleeveless tunic belted over wide-legged pants with generous inverted pleats at the hem; a long-sleeved sheath dress in midnight blue lace topped by an elongated vest with big, polished brass buttons at the waist. All three looks were elegant, yet retained an easy-to-wear feeling. They had a certain timelessness about them, too, which means they won’t date as fast as a lot of the other clothes we’ve seen for Pre-Fall. In that sense, the collection was very much in the Kuma mold.

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