Antonio Berardi riffed on masculine dressing for pre-fall but gave the codes of men’s wear a luxurious, feminine twist. Tailored looks were worked in sculptural shapes, such as a jacket and skirt in a black textural houndstooth wool, the jacket cinched at the waist and the thigh-length skirt flared, while a sinuous tailored dress with wide-folded lapels was done in a blown-up gray-and-navy houndstooth.

Inventive fabrics gave the collection richness, as in a red fabric panel woven with Lurex into a 3-D diamond pattern on a fitted dress, which the designer envisioned to look like “molten glass,” noting he prefers to develop his own original fabrics. “I don’t really believe in trends,” Berardi noted. “I work toward [designs] that are really beautiful and hope that they have a longevity simply because the fabric’s beautiful or innovative. For me, the fabric is just as important as the rest [of the collection].

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