While Barbara Tfank’s Fall collection felt a bit moody, Spring was all about lightness. “I was inspired by women’s connection to nature and their feminine energy,” she said. Her starting point was a painting by Anne Siems that depicted a woman wrapped in pastel blooms and branches. Tfank’s interpretation of that washed-out color palette was decidedly more vibrant: Shimmering cloque lamé in “Mediterranean blue” looked like sunlight glittering on the ocean surface, and an aloe green A-line cocktail dress had a smooth, radiant sheen. “I wanted the girls to glow a bit,” Tfank explained. “There’s always a little bit of sparkle in nature.” Custom antique diamond hair clips—a collaboration with Circa—lent a little retro flash.

Alongside those fancy frocks were more daytime-appropriate cotton sateen dresses in stark black and white. Tiny bows tied below each shoulder were cute and playful, yet not overly saccharine. “Bows are something women have worn for centuries,” Tfank said. “I love exploring that classic femininity.”

Tfank hosts trunk shows throughout the year, so she’s acutely aware of what her customers want—lately, it’s been more eveningwear. Ask and you shall receive: There wasn’t a single pair of pants in the entire Spring lineup. Despite the gussied-up vibe, the tightly edited collection (there were just 14 looks) made it easy to digest all those pastels and shimmer. Ruched off-the-shoulder necklines felt a bit dated, but a hand-crocheted Lurex crop top paired with a full brocade skirt was charming and youthful.