Chester Barrie Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear Chester Barrie is the ultimate Modern Tailor, taking established forms and developing them; creating the unexpected. The tailor’s art is to take a piece of cloth and create a three-dimensional form, to bring it to life so that it sculpts and flatters the wearer. Chester Barrie’s aim is to do this, ...
Casely-Hayford Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear Joe Casely-Hayford feels a deep alignment with W.E.B. Du Bois' notion of "double consciousness." He is simultaneously a Ghanaian man and an Englishman, possessor of dual identities both separate and aligned. Consider further that Casely-Hayford is co-designed by Charlie, Joe's son, who feels similarly. So that's two designers, from two generations, linked ...
Sportmax - Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear What says "Resort" like a touch of the seafaring? This season Sportmax's précis was a nautical one, complete with rope, grommets, and a palette of reds and blues that lent the brand's clean lines a kind of utilitarian whimsy. Shapes skewed toward the oversized: There were loose culottes, and boxy ...
Sonia Rykiel - Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear Since arriving at Sonia Rykiel a year ago, Julie de Libran has tapped into the French label's roots, but today she was in New York showing off her Resort collection at Ladurée Soho to a full house that included her pal Sofia Coppola. The Manhattan setting was appropriate; the ...
Sophie Theallet - Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear Lots of designers like to say they design for "real" women. Sophie Theallet is one of the few for whom that assertion is patently true: Her dresses and gowns look better, frankly, on women with curves to match the clothes' voluptuous sensibility. At a small runway presentation of Theallet's ...
Sonia by Sonia Rykiel - Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear The premise of the Parisian is ripe with the potential to wear thin. But it's an archetype that the Sonia Rykiel brand comes by more honestly than almost any other around, emblematic as it has been of Left Bank insouciance for decades. As a result, both the ...
See by Chloe - Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear For Resort, the See by Chloé précis name-checked Quadrophenia, the film inspired by The Who's rock opera of the same name, and Daisies, a feminist masterpiece of the Czech New Wave. The dress and devil-may-care attitude of their women lent this collection its mod insouciance and silhouette, which ...
Sea NY - Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear What do Japan and the Midwest have in common? Denim and bandannas, for starters, both of which featured prominently in Sea's new collection. Designers Sean Monahan and Monica Paolini have established a feminine, folksy aesthetic that lots of women can relate to, but for Resort they were thinking along ...
Sea NY - Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear What do Japan and the Midwest have in common? Denim and bandannas, for starters, both of which featured prominently in Sea's new collection. Designers Sean Monahan and Monica Paolini have established a feminine, folksy aesthetic that lots of women can relate to, but for Resort they were thinking along ...
Samuji - Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear Samuji is a creative studio and design house based in Helsinki, Finland. Our work focuses on design and consulting, and is based on the values we hold in everyday life: a love of necessary things, simple functionality, and kindness. Our ambition is to produce timeless and sustainable design that serves a ...
Saloni - Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear "I've really been trying to discipline myself, in terms of color," Saloni Lodha said at an appointment today. "Which is so hard for me! I'm Indian! I want all the colors!" Lodha owes herself a pat on the back: Her discipline is paying off. This season, there was a palpable ...
Saloni - Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear "I've really been trying to discipline myself, in terms of color," Saloni Lodha said at an appointment today. "Which is so hard for me! I'm Indian! I want all the colors!" Lodha owes herself a pat on the back: Her discipline is paying off. This season, there was a palpable ...
Rosie Assoulin - Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear There is no designer quite like Rosie Assoulin. As runway fashion veers ever more plainspoken, Assoulin stands firm on the principle that every article of clothing should be a statement piece. Other designers reserve high drama for the red carpet; Assoulin proposes that even looks for day should be ...
Sally Lapointe - Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear Color isn't something you typically find a lot of in Sally LaPointe's collections, so an entire rack of pool-blue sequins felt like a genuine surprise at her Resort preview. Luxe minimalism has long been her MO, but she knows when to let loose and have a little fun. "I ...
Sachin + Babi - Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear "By the time you start designing Resort, you're in the depths of winter," Sachin Ahluwalia said at a collection preview. What better way to mentally escape the cold than by dreaming about—and designing for—the tropics? Print-happy Ahluwalia and his wife-partner, Babi, created a wavy stripe in unexpected yellow, ...
Hardy Amies Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear When Hardy Amies designed the costumes for Stanley Kubrick's 2001: A Space Odyssey in 1968, he based the scenes set on Earth on his own 1960s tailoring. But as soon as the movie moved out into space, the costumes became more free-form—from space suits in bright colors to egg-shaped flight stewardess' ...
Gieves & Hawkes Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear No. 1 Savile Row. Mmmm. Just roll that address around your tongue for a while. And then say it again. Mmmm. Gieves & Hawkes has the most evocative address in menswear, no doubt. And its history is impeccable. Depending on whom you believe, it invented the blazer. It most definitely ...
E Tautz Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear Britain in the 1950s is often characterized as a culturally repressed period that was fatally straitened by postwar austerity and a sourly authoritarian establishment. Yet there were glimmers of light: Francis Bacon was already carousing in The Colony Room as the state-sponsored Festival of Britain attempted to jolt the nation forward. ...
Duchamp Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear Founded in 1989, the London-based luxury goods business initially specialised in men’s accessories, characterised by bold colours and flamboyant designs. The introduction of clothing in 2011 was a decisive moment for Duchamp, putting it on a path towards becoming a true lifestyle brand. The name of the brand was inspired by the late ...
Craig Green Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear "A single, improbably picturesque image." That was how Craig Green cued audience response to his Spring show today. True, there was a uniformity to the collection, the earnest young men and women walking in now-familiar variations of his mutated martial arts outfits/utilitywear, with the quilting, the wrapping, and the ties that ...
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