Stella McCartney Resort 2017 On Bessd There’s quite a bit to say about what Stella McCartney acquired as much as in London on November 10. In the course of the day, she was previewing her debut menswear assortment and her Pre-Spring 2017 womenswear at a Methodist chapel she’d employed simply throughout the road from the Abbey ...
Vivienne Westwood Spring 2017 Menswear on Bessd
Vivienne Westwood Spring 2017 Menswear Boundaries mean little to Dame Vivienne Westwood. Perhaps because she transgressed so many in the ’70s. This is, after all, a woman who habitually wore a see-through rubber body suit—dubbed the “Rubber Johnny,” after a British prophylactic colloquialism and due to its translucent pink material—and who sold T-shirts scrawled with obscenities, ...
Versace Spring 2017 Menswear on Bessd
Versace Spring 2017 Menswear Donatella Versace shot a movie before she designed her latest collection. No, the blonde bombshell hasn’t finally taken to the silver screen—alongside Bruce Weber she spent four days in Chicago, photographing her Fall 2016 Versace campaign and shooting a 20-odd-minute film to go with it. A shortened version of said film played ...
Salvatore Ferragamo Spring 2017 Menswear on Bessd
Salvatore Ferragamo Spring 2017 Menswear The Russian painter Nicolas de Staël ’s oeuvre was on more than one mood board this season; not surprising, because he was loaded with some of the most attractive qualities that a fashion designer in search of inspiration can hope for. He was handsome, talented, an emigré aristocrat, a slightly ...
Prada Spring 2017 Menswear on Bessd
Prada Spring 2017 Menswear Miuccia Prada has often been fascinated with otherness, with the idea of the different, the alien, the unfamiliar. A curiosity informs her work—a curiosity about people. How they live, what they like, what they may want to wear. It’s not always the foundation of her collections, but it is telling that after ...
No. 21 Spring 2017 Menswear on Bessd
No. 21 Spring 2017 Menswear For every designer on Earth, fashion shows are a double-edged sword. On one hand, designers have to endure the merciless pressure the staging of a fashion show can generate. On the other hand, those shows are the ultimate creative showcase for their vision. It's a love-hate relationship from which, like ...
MSGM Spring 2017 Menswear on Bessd
MSGM Spring 2017 Menswear Massimo Giorgetti’s MSGM first made its mark via its youthfulness—something which, for a long time, was in short supply in Milan. He’s trading on both that perception, and that appeal, despite the fact the label is approaching its first decade in business. Nevertheless, the Spring MSGM show began with pulsing Acid house ...
Kiton Spring 2017 Menswear on Bessd
Kiton Spring 2017 Menswear Antonio De Matteis, CEO of Kiton, has noticed an interesting thing. “Among our customers, the younger ones are buying more formal and the older ones are buying more sportswear.” Eh? What makes that sentence make sense is the level of the Kiton proposition. And that level is high. Most Kiton customers are ...
Jil Sander Spring 2017 Menswear on Bessd
Jil Sander Spring 2017 Menswear “I wanted to convey a sense of relaxed lightness,” said designer Rodolfo Paglialunga backstage after Jil Sander’s Spring men’s show. He tried to bring a natural ease to the quite strict house codes, without betraying their substantial legacy. Lines were clean, bordering on the severe, with an almost purist bent. Paglialunga ...
Dsquared2 Spring 2017 Menswear on Bessd
Dsquared2 Spring 2017 Menswear Let’s start at the bottom. Those platforms represented 6 inches of lift and came in silver paneled black calfskin or spangled with star paillettes. They were giddy and Ziggy and got the audience giggly. Dean and Dan Caten said backstage that the footwear had defined their casting for this show. “We ...
Antonio Marras Spring 2017 Menswear on Bessd
Antonio Marras Spring 2017 Menswear Antonio Marras ditched the catwalk this season, choosing to show his Spring men’s collection in September during Milan Fashion Week, alongside his women’s. He opted for a small preview instead, held at Circolo Marras, his poetic showroom hidden in a leafy Milanese courtyard. The space also serves as a store, selling ...
Marc Jacobs Spring 2017 Menswear on Bessd
Marc Jacobs Spring 2017 Menswear Karl Aberg, the archly entertaining actuator of Marc Jacobs’s vision for Marc Jacobs menswear, acknowledged this evening that next Spring’s collection was as closely aligned to women’s Resort as it has been recently. You only needed to recognize the MTV logo to see that, and it was here in sequins ...
Calvin Klein Collection Spring 2017 Menswear on Bessd
Calvin Klein Collection Spring 2017 Menswear Calvin Klein is in a strange situation for Spring. Actually, it’s not that strange: house sans creative director holds the fort for a season or few with the uncredited, somewhat unloved anonymous mass of the “design team” before unveiling its splashy new hire. It’s becoming the oldest story in the ...
Fendi Spring 2017 Menswear on Bessd
Fendi Spring 2017 Menswear Pablo Picasso was clearly one of the great artistic forces of the 20th century, as well as being an enthusiastic pursuer of passion. His third important yet-often overlooked attribute was his fondness for terry cloth. Pictures of Pablo wearing his favorite scarlet towelling shorts on the Côte d’Azur were central to Silvia ...
Missoni Spring 2017 Menswear on Bessd
Missoni Spring 2017 Menswear Angela Missoni recalled pre-show that when the family firm first burst forth, her father, Ottavio, was often asked the same question. “They wondered if he was bothered by all the copies you could see everywhere that had taken their inspiration from Missoni. And what he used to say is: ‘Up in ...
Damir Doma Spring 2017 Menswear on Bessd
Damir Doma Spring 2017 Menswear Never for money, always for love” was the name of this collection held in a beautiful semi-derelict occupied space in Milan, which Damir Doma proudly reported had never agreed to hold anything as bourgeois as a fashion show until he asked them. Doma is unquestionably an artist who wields plenty ...
Marcelo Burlon County of Milan Spring 2017 Menswear on Bessd
Marcelo Burlon County of Milan Spring 2017 Menswear Point number one about Marcelo Burlon is that his casting is awesome; female, male, black, white, tall, short, young, old . . . whatever. These are beautiful people wherever you’re coming from. Point number two is that he is fully plugged into a slightly tiresome gothic font oversized ...
Gucci Spring 2017 Menswear on Bessd
Gucci Spring 2017 Menswear The notion of travel is emerging as something of a fixation for the Spring 2017 menswear season. Maybe it’s the current state of endless fashion flux, caused by the stretch of the peripatetic Resort collections. Eighteen days ago, Alessandro Michele was in London unveiling his own for Gucci in the cloisters of ...
Diesel Black Gold Spring 2017 Menswear on Bessd
Diesel Black Gold Spring 2017 Menswear Small Trades, Irving Penn's book of stark black and white portraits of workmen wearing their everyday uniforms taken in the 1950s, stands as one of photography's masterpieces. "The dignity, the proud postures, the fiery spirit that he was able to capture: I was so inspired by it," said the serene ...
Etro Spring 2017 Menswear on Bessd
Etro Spring 2017 Menswear Etro is an Italian fashion house founded in 1968. The label remains a family business, with the founder's children in executive positions with the company. Etro produces a menswear and womenswear line, in addition to accessories, fragrances, and other home products. The company is best known for its paisley patterned designs, which ...