BOSS – pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear

The Boss woman, as Jason Wu thinks of her, is a commanding type. She’s got an office with a billion-dollar view (the company’s new headquarters 48 floors above Water Street has pretty decent ones, too, by the way) and a wardrobe as exacting and efficient as her mind. In his first few seasons at the German brand, Wu hasn’t ventured too far beyond what she might wear to work and, with the exception of a dress here and there for his bold-faced friends, to her business functions afterward.

At his mini show today, he said he set his sights on more casual attire, but before you begin contemplating a Boss tracksuit, it wasn’t as casual as all that. Yes, there were knits, but his V-necks were cut with a second-skin rigor. And, sure, his jacquard was inspired by sand dunes, but Wu’s dunes are as precise as they come. Still, it was nice to see him expand his Boss universe. Those sexy knits looked terrific slipped into the waistband of wrap-style midi skirts. But for all the focus on ease, as with Wu’s previous collections for the brand, his suiting remained the best thing going here. That points to two things: 1) Wu’s skills as a tailor, and 2) the lack of chic, straight-up suits out there. Wu would be smart to make more of them.

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