Calvin Klein Collection – Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear
Francisco Costa collaborated on a print with the artist Alice Lancaster for Resort. He discovered her on Instagram, where she goes by the handle @ragingleisure. Coincidence or not, raging leisure is a fitting description for his new collection, which combined the languid shapes of the 1920s—think long fitted knit tanks over midi-length skirts—with a sportif aesthetic that came across mostly via bold horizontal stripes. Padding out in white-soled sneakers, the models conveyed athletic good health, even if here and there the vibe fell a bit short of effortless: Some of the plastic belt buckles that hit at mid-thigh looked clunky.
Costa might’ve skipped the black leather biker jackets that he morphed into dresses, too; that kind of thing has been done elsewhere. That said, the jacket and skirt pieced together from strips of eelskin looked cool—ultra-luxe, obviously, but with a vintage sheen. In the end, the big story here was the midi silhouette. Extrapolating on the idea of the tank-over-skirt set, Costa cut salopette dresses in silk and layered them over boxy knit tees with a translucent, techno sheen. As elegant as a dress worn with trainers could be. Lancaster’s contribution was an abstract motif of breasts. Not safe for Instagram, maybe, but very much in the arty vein that Costa likes.