CEDRIC CHARLIER AUTUMN/WINTER 2015-16 READY-TO-WEAR PARIS FASHION WEEK
Simplify, simplify, simplify. Cédric Charlier shed the fringe and ruffles that gave his Spring collection its sweetness for a cleaner, more sportif vibe this season. It felt true to his early collections, when Charlier compared his cutting to that of a scalpel, and declared his antipathy for black. One of the key trends to emerge so far for Fall is colorful tailoring. For the woman who likes her pantsuits as bright as they are sharp, Charlier is her man. He’s embraced bold hues since his Fall ’12 launch, and he committed to them big-time here. A navy coat topped a liquid-y green button-down and bordeaux pants; a grass green coat accompanied a royal blue sweater and cropped trousers color-blocked in blush and blue. Only for evening did Charlier dial back the brights, and when he did he amped up the shine.
Overall, this was a pretty peppy outing, with sequined stripe minidresses distinguished by their athletic efficiency, crinkly patent PVC outerwear, and a couple of fox chubbies dyed nude or green and midnight. Charlier has always had a smart head for business. With some other designers in his category doing all-black clothes, retailers are bound to respond to this lineup. The fit-and-flare minidresses were too close to Louis Vuitton’s for comfort, but otherwise Charlier had a lot to offer.