Chloe – Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear
Fleetwood Mac soundtracked the Chloé show in Paris this past February. For Resort, Clare Waight Keller had Brian Eno on the brain. Eno in his Roxy Music incarnation, that is—there wasn’t music playing in the Chloé showroom today, but you could guess the vintage from the louche vibe of the clothes on display. According to Waight Keller, what inspired her about Eno was the way he would summon different attitudes when he performed, and with that in mind, she divvied up this collection into three sections: one, a group in gothic black, which featured lots of lacy maxi dresses and skirts; a second feral group that emphasized animal prints and jacquards; and a third group that riffed on glam-rock romance, going heavy-duty on billowy-ness and ruffles. So far, so very Chloé—and not so very different, in fact, from much of the stuff on the runway for Fall ’15. There were some distinguishing elements, however. Waight Keller’s pencil skirts with lengthy slits slashed in front and back were sharply cut and dead sexy, and her way of mixing frothy looks with thick, oversize knits or sporty items such as baseball jackets or slouchy tapered pants made for a nice update. The real news, though, was the mega-wide-leg trousers, a must-have in soft washed denim or chambray, and a silhouette that the designer ought to elaborate on next season. In a collection that raised the volume on the signature Chloé diaphanousness, those pants, in particular, provided a sense of backbone. Or, as Eno may have put it, a backbeat.