Marcelo Burlon has energy in spades—that really draws you in, regardless of how firmly you try to resist. It comes from natural confidence, but also from an unusual upbringing. Born and raised in Patagonia, he had the singular chance to observe the world from a remote vantage point. That made for a wide and worldly kind of vision; it also explains why wings became a strong symbol for his brand, emblazoned like a crest on T-shirts and sweatshirts. Freedom is paramount for Burlon, who went through many incarnations (stylist, rave maven, avant-garde art director, DJ) before being able to gel those experiences together in a full-fledged womenswear collection, adding “designer” to his already full CV.

Today’s show took place in a stunning noble residence in the heart of Milan, replete with the mandatory awe-inspiring frescoed ceilings, stuccoed walls, and grand staircases: The opulence made for a well-orchestrated, striking contrast with the collection. A series of carefully art-directed tableaux vivants were displayed on a photographic set, pooled by theme and color. The look was strong and assertive, melding together esoteric symbols of Patagonia with a ninja-inspired, cyber/robotic motorbike and streetwear elements. It all landed in futuristic territory with a luxe factor. Richly crystal-embroidered T-shirts screamed “expensive!” A silver rave-worthy puffa jacket was paired with matching biker pants and waistcoat—it had a metallic, mechanical, space-age feel and was so bright it looked as if were lit from within.

Burlon doesn’t seem to believe in rigid distinctions between masculine and feminine, and the collection seemed effortlessly built around the progressive notion of interchangeability. Inspiration from Patagonia also appeared in different ways, notably in the roomy bombacho trousers, an open homage to the great Yohji Yamamoto and a very of-the-moment shape, inspired by traditional gaucho attire. They were paired with a fire red, shiny bomber jacket or a sweatshirt with graphic prints in stark black and white for maximum impact. Definitely a master of hybridization and totally in control, Burlon is ready for his close-up: He will probably shoot the picture himself.

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