Cushnie Et Ochs – Pre Spring/Summer 2016 Ready-To-Wear
Changes are afoot at Cushnie et Ochs. Michelle Ochs is getting married this summer, a development that may explain the unusually romantic vibe of the collection she and partner Carly Cushnie offered for Resort. Further, the brand has just moved into new, larger digs—a development that seemed justified in light of the confidence and concision of Cushnie et Ochs’ latest outing. The duo found their voice as designers early on; this season it felt like they’d tuned it. The clothes were typically sexy and skin baring. But they were sensual in a way that felt genuinely new. For the most part that was due to an emphasis on curvilinear shapes and the incorporation of ruffles and fluid fabrics into even the most body-con looks. Case in point: a black pencil dress in the label’s signature power mesh, with a cape-like overlay of organza. Elsewhere, the waterfall ruffles on bra tops and dotted dresses and skirts added a welcome sense of movement and, yes, romance to the erstwhile va-va-voom proceedings. There was a distinct Latin accent to this lineup, one arrived at, the designers explained, by chain of association to their original inspiration, which was the brightly colored and graphically patterned Amazonian dart frog. Once Cushnie and Ochs pointed to the umpteen pictures of those frogs on their mood board, the reference seemed self-evident—especially in the case of the collection’s ombré sequined items. Glittery, rainbow hued, and fit to the body like a glove, these pieces were—without a doubt—flashy. But even here, Cushnie and Ochs operated with a certain amount of circumspection. They’ve figured out when enough’s enough.