The source material wasn’t the issue at this latest outing from Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs. The designers were working from a rich inspiration—Cleopatra—and their palette was a punchy combination of neutrals, petrol blue, pink, and marigold. There were some looks with zip, like flapped knit dresses and pencil-shaped ones in mixed up black-and-white stripes. And the duo are to be commended on their ongoing effort to expand their silhouette vocabulary beyond the body con for which they’re best known. There was a perfectly pretty, soft pleated dress in pale pink, for instance, and fluid trousers and a top in that appealing petrol blue. Both looks could have appeared on any number of designers’ runways, and both were kind of bland—which was the overarching problem here. The draping didn’t stand out, the grommets were overfamiliar, the gowns a little blah. The most memorable looks on the runway today were the two swimsuits—a barely there striped bikini, and a V-necked maillot with an asymmetrical skirt. The suits looked fresh, the work of designers applying themselves to their métier and trying to say something relatively new.

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