This much is true: The rock-and-roll look does well for Diesel Black Gold. The onus is on creative director Andreas Melbostad to tweak his customer’s closet staples—the Moto Jacket, the Black Pant, the Studded Anything—just enough so that she wants to buy yet another.

“Ongoing ingredients,” said Melbostad, gesturing to a sleeveless georgette shirtdress decorated with flat circle studs. “This time with a ’90s sensibility.” Lightweight tops and high-waist trousers hung alongside not-so-basic motorcycle jackets: a navy version piped in red, a burgundy tweed style with quilted black leather accents, a black rendition embroidered and studded to the max. This season’s denim was treatment-driven—supersized polka dots were printed onto a blue vintage wash, white geometrics onto black. But the outerwear pieces were the best bets, including a knee-length wool peacoat in gray pinstripe and a hip-length anorak in black or olive. Unlike the rest of the collection, there was little novelty to them. Just want-it-now appeal.

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