DONNA KARAN has always been interested in tribes; from those that dwell on the Great Plains of Africa to others more youth centric, right here in New York City. Sometimes it can lean too literally one way or the other but this season seemed to strike a perfect balance between the two. Call it ethnic tech, an idea that even carried through to the accessories, where the designer juxtaposed tribal chokers with rubberised watches.

Macro and mini stripes (a recurring theme already here in New York) and stretchy knitted tube skirts (another idea that we have already seen a lot of) communicated a young energy, especially when they came topped with Aertex bomber jackets or tiered raffia peplums. Add a palette that Karan described as a “vibrant spring mosaic” and it’s all sounding piled-on-complicated, but it was one of her most considered collections in recent history.

The finale looks, a series of all-white ensembles: bouncy Aertex fit and flare dresses, sweatshirts and crisp poplin shirting breezed in like a palate cleanser, all anchored with some pretty cool kicks – sneakers (of course) in case you had to ask.

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