Who is the Duckie Brown woman? After a decade-plus designing menswear, Daniel Silver and Steven Cox put women’s clothes on their runway for the first time back in February. They weren’t entirely pleased with the results. “We tried to change it too much, it was too womens-y,” Silver said at their Spring lookbook shoot. Adjustments have clearly been made. “This season,” he continued, “it’s all kind of the same.” Where the waist was nipped for Fall, it’s slouchy now, and where she was wearing pointy heels, for Spring she’s sporting the brown suede Florsheim lace-ups the male models will don at the Duckie Brown show later this week. In some cases, the silhouettes are simply sized-down versions of the men’s looks. He wears a 40; she’s a 28.

All of this should please the gals who’ve long been asking the Duckie designers for women’s versions of their classic-with-a-quirk tailoring and separates. But what about the ladies who don’t have a Duckie guy in their life, who are unfamiliar with the label? Looking at the bigger fashion picture, it’s a good moment for Duckie Brown womenswear. People can’t stop talking about normcore, and it doesn’t get more normcore than the Duckie Brown muse for Spring. “Everyone wants us to be outrageous,” Cox said, “but we’re not really outrageous. The essence of Duckie Brown is simple, subtle oddness.” Silver’s 90-something father is featured on the show invite, and it’s his slightly off sensibility—the elasticized waistband, the shirt partially untucked on one side, the penchant for plaid—that informs the styling of the quite normal clothes in both the men’s and women’s DB offerings. Only the fabrics—woven silks, Japanese polyesters—would be unfamiliar to Silver’s dad.

For now, Silver and Cox plan to keep the men’s and women’s collections separate, but considering the way they talk to each other (fashion’s other hot topic of the moment is unisex), it’d be interesting to see them reunited on the runway sometime soon.

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